From Libro della Cucina del secolo XIV (CXXV)
A ffare cervellade bressane
Toy libre XXV de carne de porcho in la qual non ge sia collo né lombo in gambelli, ma sia de le polpe delle cosse, overo de le spalle, overo altre libre XX e libre V del grasso ch’ è a pè de le cosse piú o meno, secondo tu le voy servare, e batilla ben trida col coltello, poy abi onze XV de formazo di candia e onze XV de sale de sardegna overo libre do de sale da chioza e onze VI de pever roso e fa ch’ el sale e formaio sian ben trito e incorporato questo batuto insieme. Tuò budelli e lassali stare dì II di saxone e quanto piú è fredo e tempo chiaro tanto è meglo, poy meti al fumo, altri meti nel batuto del zafarano e specie, ma quanto piú tanto melglo con suoa raxone.
To make smoked yellow sausage (translation accessed from http://helewyse.medievalcookery.com/libro.html)
Take twenty five pounds of pork, which is not that from the neck nor from the leg, but is the meat from the meat from the ribs or the shoulder, otherwise take twenty pounds of meat and five pounds of fat, which is the same thing. Take more or less dependent on how much you want to serve. Chop everything well with a knife, then have fifteen ounces of white cheese and fifteen ounces of salt from Sardinia or two pounds of salt from Chiogga, and six ounces of red pepper. Make sure that the salt and the cheese are finely chopped and mixed well into the batter. Stuff the intestines and let them rest for two days, more if the weather is cold and clear, more is better. Then put them to smoke. You can also add to the batter saffron and spices, as much as you feel is appropriate.
Recipe
3 pounds pork shoulder, ground
1 tbsp salt
1 tbsp crushed cubeb
6 tbsp ricotta cheese
2 tsp ginger
very generous pinch of saffron, ground
sausage casings
I have found pork shoulders to have the right balance of fat to meat for making sausages, and it’s a very economical cut of meat. If you do not have a meat grinder, ask if your store’s meat department will grind it for you.
Mix all ingredients well. Allow to set at least 24 hours for the flavors to mingle. Stuff your sausages as per your sausage stuffer’s instructions. You do not need to make links. Ideally, these are smoked with a mild wood chip until done. Using a stovetop smoker I have had excellent results holding the dry smoke at 185 for 30 minutes. You can also bake in the oven at 325 for 40 minutes.
